Phil Clarke
6 posts
Joined: 16/11/2009 21:47:08
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear hub oil seal
I am replacing my rear wheel bearings with the tapered variety and when it comes to replacing the oil seal the Haynes manual says fit the oil seal with the lips facing outwards! Is this correct and what is the reason for it as it goes against everything that i have experienced over the years?
Posted: Mar 15, 2011 12:13 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
By "outwards" I think they mean facing away from the bearing. You need the groove and spring on the inside face next to the bearing and the flat face showing towards the swinging arm. That way the felt pad sits on the flat rubber face rather than disappearing inside it.
Posted: Mar 16, 2011 01:48 PM
Felt pads used to be used prior to the introduction of rubber/plastic oil seals i don't know that they need to be used together!
Posted: Mar 16, 2011 06:27 PM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
..........
There is absolutely nothing wrong with fitting 3/4 wheel spcers to drum brakes - thats what the rear S /1275GT rear drums are really - standard drums but with a 3/4 spacer cast in at the point of manufacture. This business about spacers putting excessive loads on the wheel bearings is badly misconstrued too. Look at the John Cooper Garages handling package for the 12 wheeled Coopers that was Rover approaved - they already had the 3/4 wider spacers on the rear and then added a further 5mm shim spacer on top of that without detriment to the wheel bearing life. I have raced Minis with the spced drums on AND an extra 3/4 spacer on top of that without causing any bearing issues. And on the front - the disc brake Minis have a 3/4 wider track per side without hub centre/bearing realignment. To fit the longer studs you will need to pull the drive flanges on the front and hubs on the rear off. So this will mean undoing the hub/CV retaining nuts. How mechanically capable are you? And fitting 3/4 spacers to standard drums isnt really going to get the wheels filling Sport pack arches. They were made to cover humungous 13 x 6 wheels. KC.
Posted: Dec 21, 2004 09:29 PM
J. Clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Front Disc Brakes IMP
the 7.9" discs fit most but not all 10" alloys, kad do a printable template tp cheak clearance. if u have standard 12" wheels with standard 8.4" discs then hubs are correct and caliper and disc just need changing. if u have drum brake mini u will need disc brake hubs, they can be bourt new or second hand. 7.5" discs will fit all 10" mini alloys, so if u want to use a particalar set cheak first before ordering a setup. the original cooper s setup is 2 pot non vented, fine for most road use but if u plan to be pushing hard 4pot vented or non vented would give u move stopping power. servo can be added to lighter braking if not already fitted. if u end up with poor front rear brance of brakes a change of rear brake cylinder size should solve it many sizes were used and are avalible. good pads are worth buying i use ebc green stuff,but for original spec low dust pads ebc black stuff are best.
Posted: Jun 22, 2008 11:06 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Sports pack arches
If your fitting those arches, then you need to fit 13 wheels or theyll look silly. If you fit 13 whels, then you need to cut your front wings and rear arches, change your steering rack (not sure if anything needs to be done to the rear hubs) and very closely watch your hub bearings as the added weight makes them wear out quickly. Personally, I like the GB 10 x 5 wheels. 10 x 6 can cause problems with tyres as I found with my old Mambas. 165 tyres are a bit skinny for them and it puts a lot of strain on the side walls.
Posted: Mar 28, 2005 08:35 PM
John
Front disc brakes
from experience its more expensive to get discs/rotors skimmed than buy new ones unless u know somone that is. the hubs for 7.5" and later 8.4" as used on all minis post 84 are the same. whatever hubs u use u need to fit the early (mk1 standard mini) steering arms as the post 1968 ones are differnt. id buy old 8.4" set cost around 40-60 pounds on ebay maybe less at scrap yard then fit ur steering arms and buy new or rebuilt 7.5" cooper S calipers £200 new. discs will cost about £25, pads £15-25, brake hoses £20. also for same wheel spacing its best to fit 1/2" wheel spacers or buy second hand spaced drums, rember to use longer studs to match. they varied the rear brake cylinder size of differnt models for balencing so if it isnt balencing gr8 it may be gd to fit differnt size. i have some on a mini im scraping so cud do 8.4" discs plus rear spaced drums for £50 to collect from southampton if ur interested wont be able to have them ready until start of feb tho. so dont have to say for definate just let me know by end of jan so i can bring them to my houses in soton from camb. mean while could keep an eye out for old cooper s setup but usually fetch silly money.
Posted: Jan 23, 2008 08:12 PM
Leonard
95 posts
Joined: 10/11/2004 19:56:22
Location: Stroud United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
brakes
i had a problem where the split pin broke in the hub nut, and it became loose. the brake disc moved on corners, and pushed the pads apart. you then had to pump the brakes or push the pedal right down to get it to brake. very scary! are the back brakes adjusted properly, and are the callipers bolted on properly? loose rear brakes makes more pedal travel
Posted: Feb 17, 2005 07:38 PM
Lucas
19 posts
Joined: 23/03/2008 12:12:08
Location: Paull United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brakes!
Hey, no I had my rear wheel and hub off to have a look at the pads, and the cylinder, the cylinder was damp so maybe it has been leaking but like I say nothing moves when I push my breaksl and theres no resistance on the pedal at all, I'm thinking it must be the master cylinder because even if I take off the outgoing pipes it still doenst spit anything out?
Posted: Jul 12, 2008 07:48 PM
spooky
3 posts
Joined: 12/11/2008 01:32:07
Location: newtownards United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear brake grinding
Hi. When I brake there is a slight grinding noise coming from the rear drivers side brake/wheel, (90 mayfair 998.) Shoes seem ok and hub has little or no ridgeing, anyone have any idea what could cause this?
Posted: Dec 04, 2008 12:11 AM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Check the rear drums also, in fact check them first cos they're easier! When you spin the hub you can usually see the eccentricity.
Posted: May 17, 2011 08:02 AM
Jack bye
1 posts
Joined: 04/08/2012 20:43:02
Location: Ely United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Harsh brake judder
My rear hubs oscillate which I think doesn't help. I've changed a stub axle, hub and bearing on one radius arm and replaced shoes and drum on both arms. This has made no difference whatsoever. Short of replacing the radius arms I don't know what to do. There is vibration through the steering wheel but I've changed the discs and pads, the calipers operate ok and both track rod ends have been replaced. Does anyone know what else can be tried?
Posted: Jan 08, 2017 08:33 PM
Mini rarity???
it was super delux the name for the model changed end of that year i rember doing reserch into it. the model name then changed again yr or so later. original instriment pod wasnt pressent had been replaced at later date with new centre speedo, rear opening windows was anouther feature it had, plus full wheel chrome hub caps, overider werent pressant but rear bumper had holes for them still. frm memory the delux and super were avalible until end on 62 then at end of 62/start of 63 the super delux replaced them being almost same trim as super, i think they dropped inside handles for string again. then around 64 they changed to delux only less well timmed. this is from memory read it about 4 years ago but did look into it in books ect.
Posted: Mar 08, 2008 05:53 PM
My FIrst Car 850cc
complete respray is very big job to do it properlty your talking more than value of car. id look at getting some disc brakes for it. you will need disc hubs and calipers. later 8.4" discs from minis are quite common, or you can get metro 4pot ones which will stop you quick. you also have to change rear brake cylinder size for brake balence. also might be worth considering a servo to make braking lighter. ebay is prob cheapest source.
Posted: Oct 08, 2007 10:46 AM
Finally an Engine Change. !!!
if its an a+ 998 with 8.5" discs then just bolt it on the gearbox. if its an a series 998 box u need to cut bits out for the crank to clear. if it has drums ul need new drive shafts and disc assemibily with hub if the engine didnt come with a set of vented 4 pot onces. u will need larger rad than 998 one or it will most likly overheat in traffic. ul need new engine mounts and a new twin pipe down pipe or an lbc manifold, ul also need a new rear exaust as 998 is very small bore u wont need cat on 998 if it is fitted as 998s were only made b4 92. need gearbox gasget.
Posted: Oct 18, 2006 04:49 PM
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
Re- Parts needed
Katsoulinos, theres a bit more involved than simply buying a set of disks and installing them. Youll need: disk-type wivel hubs (FAM2390 (R/H) FAM2391 (L/H)) and ball joints, grease nipples, outer CV joints, drive flanges, Timkin wheel bearings, flexible hoses, disks, calipers, hub nuts + split pins etc... - Dont forget to also install a pair of spacered rear drums also, as the front tracking width will change!!! You can read more on this here in Calvers Corner: http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=121 http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=124 http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=116 http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=125 Also, I recommend studying (or printing) the Classic Parts catalogue, particularly the Suspension and Brakes chapters - look at all the bits that are unique to disk brake systems: http://www.minispares.com/Auth/Downloads2.aspx?con=cmpc&if=../Html/ClassicMechanicalPartsCatalogue/mini_akm2_index.htm If you plan the job well, the conversion will go rather smoothly - just know what you want in advance. Also, if you do a product search (on this site) for part # C-AJJ4028, youll see 3 very cost effective methods of converting from drums to 7.5 S disks. Believe me, it costs a lot less to do it in a complete kit - I didnt and wish I did (I could have used the savings for more parts!). Of course, youll still need a pair of rear drums (GDB106) I hope this helps!
Posted: Dec 17, 2004 11:57 AM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mayfair brakes.
If you're handy with a spanner and have the tools then this job isn't too bad. I assume your mini is on 12 inch wheels, so this should keep the cost down a bit.
You would be best off buying 12 inch disk assemblies which should have the right cv joints, hubs, disks and calipers. Then get yourself a haynes manual to show you how, with the aid of a ball joint splitter, you take off your old hubs.
Buying the panels for doing the sills and steps will be fairly cheap, about £50-£100 depending on genuine or copy panels being used. The expensive bit is getting them fitted. Expect to pay in the region of £300 or more for someone to fit and paint them.
Rear subframe not too bad. Haynes manual again, Tank out, Wheels chocked then jack up rear end. Disconnect handbrake cable, brake pipes and shocks at top. Spray releasing oil over front bolts of subframe (just in front of rear wheel). Support subframe on jack, PRAY, then remove front and rear bolts for subframe (8 bolts). Replace bolts for stainless type and replace subframe rubbers (only a couple of quid).
Posted: Feb 20, 2009 05:47 PM
jag_clarke
13 posts
Joined: 01/11/2008 14:07:42
Location: Pretoria South Africa
tire
thanks for the post. the tire size is actualy to big. the cross railing diameter of the 175 50 13 is +- 505mm and the 215 50 13 is +-545mm. so you have to cut the swingarm an bracket. but iam making my own custom rose joint suspension. the rims iam using is thin drag tipe steel 13" 7.5j ofset is 100mm. iam going to use taper roler bearings, dont think they wil last but worth trying. also iam spending a lot of time on designing the suspension and whitch hubs iam going to use to work best with the ofset, something like nissan premera rear units. check the fotos of the wheel! they are so beautiful! lol!!!
Posted: Nov 18, 2008 07:03 PM
Patrick Campbell
Joined: 24/10/2017 12:28:13
Location: Walton-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Swivel Hub Retaining Nut Torque Settings
Hi All, This is my first time on this forum so please be patient. I am getting my daughter's 1988 Mini Designer Mary Quant back on the road after being in a garage for the last 6 years. I have taken the engine out, the front sub frame off and am slowly checking and replacing all the suspension parts where required. I have also stripped down the O/S swivel hub and checked the tapered bearings and found they are ok. I have replaced the oil seals, now I need to know the torque setting. In my old Haynes circa 1995 in the supplement chapter and the main chapter two different figures are given. The car has discs at the front drums at the rear and the drive shaft has only one hole in it for the split pin. Nowhere does it say in my Haynes about tightening up first with a flat washer with the conical thrust washer removed. I should say that when I removed the tapered bearings I did not remove the inner part of each bearing or the spacer just the roller sections. The set of the bearings should not therefore have been changed. When I undid the nut very little effort was needed. Regards Paddy
Posted: Oct 26, 2017 09:05 PM
Peter
33 posts
Joined: 12/11/2004 20:35:27
Location: Penryn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bigger disc options for 12'
Does anyone know of larger discs that can be fitted to the 12 disc brake hubs? I am running 12 revolites and need better brakes. I have already fitted greenstuff pads and they made a massive difference but about to go for a major (200bhp) power upgrade... Does anyone do alloy bells to fit custom larger discs? Are the KAD rear discs worth having? Or will they just lock up?
Posted: May 03, 2005 11:18 AM